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Surfing in Lisbon - Praia de Carcavelos

One of the bad things of surfing I guess is that you have to surf what the ocean offers. Sometimes Neptune gives you bullokcs. On other days he decides to give you a session you will remember forever. And in the end that is actually what I like about surfing. You wouldn't have memorable days if it was epic all the time and that is the beauty of surf.

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In 2018 Portugal was going to get hit by the strongest cyclone of tropical origin ever and surf conditions looked promising. So I decided to wake up super early and squeeze in a session before work. One of the good things of being a digital nomad is that I define my own hours and when I arrived at the beach I knew I wasn't going to work before midday that day. I had never seen Carcavelos like that. It looked like the ocean was on steroids, but it was surfable. So I decided to paddle out, give it a try, but I was pissing myself.

I only caught three waves that day and I must have battled the ocean for more than three hours. Got smashed big time. In the end I probably didn't surf more than 30 seconds standing up. But I caught two screamers I will remember until I die or get Alzheimer. And that is what surfing is all about.

Thank you Carcavelos. Thank you Leslie.

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